Seven years ago, I was visiting Turkey with a vegetarian friend, also from the United States. One night, looking for somewhere to eat dinner, we went up to a restaurant owner and asked, “Do you have anything without meat?” He responded enthusiastically, “Yes, yes…! Coffee, and rice.”

Although fresh, delicious produce is easy to come by in Turkey, kebab culture still dominates. But options for vegetarians–or anyone who’s had their fill of grilled meat–are increasing, especially in Istanbul

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